Middle East - Travel To Syria

 

Since Bashar al-Assad took over the reins from his father in 2001, modernisation has been on the national agenda. This is no Levantine backwater - Syria is a modern, efficient and very proud nation with an administration that is becoming more liberal and outward looking by the day. It needs and deserves travellers to bear witness to this fact.

Fortunately, all this modernisation doesn't mean that Syria has lost sight of its past. The country has more than its fair share of significant historical sites, all of which are respectfully maintained by the authorities. The ancient cities of Damascus, Aleppo and Bosra are all listed on Unesco's World Heritage list, as is the sensationally beautiful ruined city of Palmyra. Mighty Crusader castles, labyrinthine medieval souqs, jewel-like Damascene houses and sacred Umayyad mosques are only some of the treats on offer; there are plenty more for those who are keen to search them out. Best of all is the fact that these monuments are often woven into the fabric of daily life - the locals worship in the mosques, shop in the souqs, drink tea in the houses and picnic in the ruins. And they're happy for travellers to join them.

Talking about picnics brings us to the pièce de résistance when it comes to a Syrian so- journ - the food. The national cuisine is simply superb, so come with a big appetite. You're bound to be replete in so many ways when you finally tear yourself away.

Best time to find the cheapest flights to Syria

Spring is the best time to visit as temperatures are mild and the winter rains have cleared the haze that obscures views for much of the year. Autumn is the next best choice. The busiest tourism periods are Easter, July, August, October and Islamic religious holidays. During these times it is essential to book accommodation in advance. This chapter often quotes opening hours as 'summer' or 'winter'; summer hours generally refer to April to September and winter hours to October to March, but these aren't set in stone and can be dependent on the weather.

Navigating Syria

Syria has a well-developed road network, and bus transport is frequent and cheap. Distances are short, so journeys rarely take more than a few hours. Carry your passport at all times as you may need it for ID checks; you'll definitely need it to buy tickets. Several kinds of buses ply the same routes, but the most safe and comfortable way to travel is by 'luxury' Pullman bus. Minibuses operate on many of the shorter routes, eg Hama-Homs, Tartus-Lattakia and Homs-Lattakia. They take about 20 people, are often luridly decorated and have no schedule, departing only when full. This means that on less popular routes you may have to wait quite some time until one fills up. Journey times are generally longer than with the other buses, as they set people down and pick them up at any and all points along the route - hence their common name of 'hob-hob' (stop-stop). You'll need an International Driving Permit (IDP) if you decide to drive in Syria. Traffic runs on the right-hand side of the road. The speed limit is 60 km/h in built-up areas, 70km/h on the open road and 110km/h on major highways. The roads are generally quite reasonable, but when heading off into the backblocks you will find that most signposting is in Arabic only.

The Syrian railway system was neglected for many decades, but is improving due to recent government investment, including the purchase of new French-made locomotives. That said, buses are still usually the better option for getting around the country. The only exception to this rule is the Lattakia-Aleppo service; this goes through spectacular countryside, starts and terminates in centrally located stations and is very comfortable.

First class is air-con with aircraft-type seats; 2nd class is the same without air-con. Student discounts are only given on 2nd-class tickets.

The main line connects Damascus, Aleppo, Deir ez-Zur, Hassake and Qamishle. A secondary line runs from Aleppo to Lattakia, along the coast to Tartus and again inland to Homs and Damascus.

Syrianair has a monopoly on domestic flights in the country, and operates flights from Damascus to Aleppo, Deir ez-Zur, Lattakia and Qamishle. Under-26s can usually get discounted tickets.

Facts about Syria

Legend has it that on a journey from Mecca, the Prophet Mohammed cast his gaze from the mountainside onto Damascus but refused to enter the city because he wanted to enter paradise only once – when he died. In a place that vies for the title of the world’s oldest continually inhabited city, this is but one of thousands of stories.

With its position as the first stop for travellers from the east, and with the Barada River flowing down freely from the mountains where the Prophet stood, Damascus has always been a coveted capital. The machinations of those wishing to claim the city as their own is as fascinating as the wealth of architecture and culture they left behind, with Damascus collecting the calling cards of myriad civilisations. There is hardly a city in the world that has packed so much history into such a small space as the Old City. Thankfully, the Old City is still the Damascus that sustains the romantic notion of the Orient, filled with bazaars and blind alleys, minarets, mosques and fountain courtyards, street-cart vendors and coffeehouses.

While the Barada may not flow as it once did, today Damascus is finding a new spring of life. Boutique hotels now flourish in delightful old Damascene addresses, restaurants refine what is one of the world’s most complex cuisines, and art galleries are riding an incoming tide of creativity. There is a new modern sophistication in the city, but for those looking for the Damascus of countless stories, it’s still right where it’s always been.

While Damascus was always the ‘holy’ city, the seat of rulers and wary of foreigners, Aleppo (or Halab as it is known), Syria’s second city, has been one of commerce since Roman times. While both cities claim the title of ‘oldest continually inhabited city in the world’, it’s in Aleppo that the legacy of history feels more immediate.

Aleppo today retains that air of an Arabian bazaar city, with people going about business as they have done for centuries. The streets speak a rhythm of sounds – from horse-drawn carts over cobblestones to the more frenetic pace of donkey-riding couriers, still the fastest way through the atmospheric, labyrinthine souq that’s fragrant with olive soap, exotic spices, roasting coffee and succulent grilled shwarma.

Syria Airports

Syria's main international airport (DAM) is just outside Damascus and has regular connections to other cities in the Middle East, Europe, Africa and Asia on a variety of European- and Middle East-based airlines. There are other international airports at Aleppo (ALP) and Lattakia (LTK), but other than one weekly Syrianair flight to Cairo from each of these, they are most frequently used for charters and domestic flights.

Visa/Passport requirements

Most travelers must have a visa to enter Syria; the only exceptions are citizens of Arab countries. Obtain a visa before arriving at the border, preferably in your home country, well before your trip. Avoid applying in a country that's not your own or that you don't hold residency for as the Syrian authorities don't like this. At best they'll ask you for a letter of recommendation from your own embassy (often an expensive and time-consuming proposition); at worst, they'll turn you down flat. US citizens should be aware that many US embassies abroad have a policy of not issuing letters of recommendation - leading to the ridiculous situation where they issue letters stating that they don't issue letters of recommendation. If your home country doesn't have a Syrian embassy or consulate, there's no problem with you applying in another country; alternatively you can obtain a visa on arrival. If you're staying in Syria for more than 15 days you'll have to get a visa extension while in the country. This is done at an immigration office, which you'll find in all main cities.

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