Middle East - Travel To Yemen

 

There can’t be many places left in the world that could make God smile, but Yemen is one of them. Inhabited almost forever Yemen is, in many ways, the birthplace of all our lives. In days past, the sons of Noah knew it as the land of milk and honey, Gilgamesh came here to search for the secret of eternal life, wise men gathered frankincense and myrrh from its mountains and, most famously, a woman known simply as Sheba said Yemen was her home.

Yet since the book of mythology was closed, Yemen has remained largely locked away in a forgotten corner, oblivious to the world that was oblivious to it. Today, like a spring tortoise emerging from hibernation, Yemen is awaking from its slumber and slowly revealing its face. And what a face it is. Sitting at the crossroads of two continents, this country has a little of everything. Its capital, San'a, is not only incredibly romantic and intriguing, but holds the distinction of being the world's oldest city. Meanwhile, the extraordinary island of Suqutra (off the coast of Eastern Yemen) is reputed to hold the secret of eternal life somewhere amongst its unique flora and fauna. The fortified mountain village of Shaharah is tough to get to (probably why it remained unconquered for centuries) but worth making the effort for; if you prefer your travel safer and easier - but equally rewarding - try the lush region of Southern Yemen. Then there's the Wadi Hadramawt oasis where you can't help but get caught up in the mythical magic of it all, and Zabid - Unesco World Heritage site and the hottest city on earth. Need we go on?

With its shades of Afghanistan, reflections of Morocco, flavours of Africa and reminders of Arabia, Yemen is utterly unique and deeply romantic. To travel in this most traditional of Islamic countries, surrounded by a people whom the Prophet once described as ‘the most gentle-hearted of men’, is a privilege you will not quickly forget. But never mind what we have to say about it, let’s leave the last word to the man who made it.

Legend tells how one day God decided to check out how his creation was fairing: London, he decided, had changed a lot, Egypt was nothing like he remembered it, but Yemen, ‘Well’, he smiled, ‘that hasn’t changed since the day I created it’.

Best time to find the cheapest flights to Yemen

The best time to visit the Tihama is between November and February (summertime can be suffocatingly hot). The twice-yearly monsoons bring some rain to the region between mid-March and mid-April, and particularly July to September. Temperatures range from around 21°C in December and January to as high as 40°C in June. Humidity is also high.

The central highlands (which range from 1500m to 3500m) enjoy a temperate climate for most of the year, though it can get hot at noon and chilly at night (particularly between October and February). The monsoons are light in San’a, but heavy (up to 500mm rainfall) in the southwest and can continue into May. San’a ranges in temperature from a minimum of 5°C (from November to January) to a maximum of 25°C (in July).

The desert regions of the east and the far north are hot (particularly between June and September) and very dry, with temperatures from 25°C in December to 37°C or more in June. The southern coastal strip is very hot and humid between May and September.

Though the monsoons can flood wadis (river beds, often dry) and close roads, they do temporarily turn parts of Yemen into wonderfully green and fertile land.

During the peak season (20 December to 10 January), you’re advised to book hotels in popular tourist spots. Travel during the month of Ramadan is not recommended, and during the annual haj pilgrimage (as well as during Ramadan), Yemenia flights are often overbooked or cancelled.

Navigating Yemen

Most car-hire companies are based in San’a. Drivers must be over 21 (sometimes 25 years old), and have a valid driving licence from their own country. There’s a US$200 deposit payable on all cars as a guarantee. Nowhere in Yemen rents motorbikes.

There are real advantages to hiring a car with a driver. It’s safer, cheaper, more comfortable and more convenient. Additionally, a driver acts as navigator, mechanic, interpreter and sometimes guide.

Minibuses (which run from 6am to around midnight) ply the streets of all the major towns. They’re cheap (YR10 to YR30 for a hop), but unless you know exactly where they’re heading, taxis are an easier, faster and certainly more comfortable option. In a shared taxi, short hops around town cost YR30 and for a cross-town contract taxi you’ll need to negotiate, but Yemeni taxi drivers are generally more honest than most of the world’s cabbies! A journey across San’a, for example, would rarely cost more than YR400.

The only airline offering domestic flights is the national carrier, Yemenia (01-232380; www.yemenia.com; usually 8am-1.30pm & 4-7pm Sat-Thu). It boasts a pretty extensive network.

Note that it’s considerably cheaper to buy Yemenia tickets in Yemen through a Yemenia office rather than through a travel agency. For the cheapest fares, book flights well in advance.

Yemen Airports

Most international traffic arrives and departs from San’a airport. A few airlines, particularly from Middle Eastern countries, also use Aden. Work is currently under way on a new airport for San’a, which is scheduled to be completed by 2009.

Visa/Passport requirements

Passport and Visa are required for US, British, EUs, Canadian and Australian citizens unless transit passengers continuing their journey by the same or first connecting aircraft, provided holding valid onward or return documentation and not leaving the airport. The government of the Republic of Yemen refuses entry and transit facilities to holders of Israeli passports, or holders of passports containing visas valid or expired for Israel or any indication, such as entry or exit stamps, that the holder has visited Israel.